The latter is hard to remove in the future, and almost nothing will stick to it. We recommend clear acrylic caulk, and curse the use of silicone-based caulk. Some RVers like to add another layer of caution on the job in the form of a small bead of sealant around the entire perimeter of the window unit. Using a putty knife, carefully cut away and remove the excess putty tape. We find using new hardware for this job is never a bad idea.Īfter you’ve firmed down the screws, you’ll likely have extra putty tape sticking up around the margins of the window flange. Now work your way back and forth across the window, installing screws. With the helper keeping the window in place, set a couple of screws to keep the window in place. Press the window into place, and have your helper assure proper alignment. Peel the backing free from the putty tape at this point. Have an assistant ready inside to lend a hand lining up the window. Don’t peel the backing paper off until you’re ready to install the window. To do this, peel back the putty tape backing, and starting in a slightly different location along the flange, stick down a second layer of putty tape, just as you did the first one. If you’re installing the window into a rig with metal siding, many RV professionals recommend using a double layer of putty tape. Now go back and using your fingers, massage the putty tape firmly into the flange. After making a complete circuit around the flange, cut off or tear the putty tape so that the butt ends slightly overlap. Don’t take the backing paper off yet, as you’ll want to firmly press the putty tape down along the inside window flange. With window in hand (or on a bench), pull back a few inches of the putty tape from the roll. Chilled out, the tape goes on easier, and the backing paper zips right off. That’s because as the tape gets warm, it becomes more difficult to separate it from its backing paper. If you’re working in warm weather, it’s a good thing to stick your putty tape in the freezer for a few minutes. Regular putty tape damages this roof membrane. Butyl putty tape is the ONLY safe putty tape to use on a rubber (EPDM) roof. Why all this folderol? Because later, if we go to reseal a roof vent, we ONLY USE butyl putty tape in some circumstances. We use an indelible marking pen to write “BUTYL” on the inside of the roll core. One note for future safety: If you have any leftover butyl putty tape when you’re done with the job, clearly mark it. Putty tape sticks to itself something fierce, and trying to pry rolls apart is a bear. When you buy it from the RV dealership, make sure you get the little squares of paper that go between rolls. Yes, it is a bit more expensive, but in the long run, you’re probably better off using it. It lasts longer, weathers better, and just makes a whole lot better seal. For windows, we highly recommend the butyl. The material you’ll use to make a new seal is called “putty tape.” There are basically two breeds of putty tape around, the “regular” stuff and butyl putty tape. OK, maybe you don’t need to get “every last vestige” of the old material off, but by far you want to have as much as possible off to ensure the new sealant sticks well. It’ll take awhile to get all the old sealing material off. A multipurpose painter’s tool (ours is a “Husky 6-in-1”) is really helpful getting down into crevices and around corners. We’ve found sitting down to the task with your favorite beverage and a friend makes the job easier. Removing the sealant from the window unit requires plenty of time and patience. Use care so as to not scratch the sidewall. You’ll want to take a putty knife after the RV sidewall to carefully scrape away all vestiges of the old sealant material. Probably the most involved and time-consuming part of the process is cleaning up the old sealant.
0 Comments
Leave a Reply. |
AuthorWrite something about yourself. No need to be fancy, just an overview. ArchivesCategories |